Southeast Asian food seems very in fashion for the Shanghai set. Pleased as I am with the plethora of restaurants that exude the fragrance of lemongrass, I can only consume so many pricey papaya salads before feeling like my meal, and budget, are on a re-play loop. Imagine then, diners, my trepidation at being slated for yet another eatery offering food with a south Asian soul. But the owner and chef at A Tale of 4 Cities, Raymi Jambari gently rekindled the flames of my love for all things fish sauce.

东南亚美食似乎在上海很流行。对流溢着柠檬香草气息的众多餐馆，我只有消费一份木瓜沙拉后，才能感受我的大餐；预算总是捉筋见肘。当又一次美味的南亚美食试餐来临时，不难想像我颤抖激动的心情。四城记老板Raymi Jambari轻轻地重又点燃我对鱼露的热爱。

Mr. Jambari, a native of Singapore, takes food and enjoyment very seriously. His kitchen has a strict policy of no MSG, white sugar or iodized salt. Instead, Mr. Jambari enthusiastically explains that his dishes rely on sugar cane, carrot and white turnip for sweetness, and the balance of piquant flavors such as fish sauce, lemongrass, blue ginger, vinegar, and lime juice. Fresh chilies are also used liberally in his cooking.

Jambari先生是新加坡人，对美食享受郑重其事。他的厨房严格执行无味精、精制糖、碘盐政策。Jambari先生热情地解释，他菜品中的甜味来自糖藤、胡萝卜、和白甘蓝，开胃的有鱼露、柠檬香草、蓝姜、醋、和酸橙汁。他也大量使用新鲜辣椒。

It is rare to find a restaurant able bring subtle new dimensions to traditional dishes at a reasonable price. But Mr. Jambari achieves this in his menu, which draws influence from the four southern kingdoms; Thailand, Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam (where Jambari first learned how to cook).

很少有餐馆在改良传统、开发新品时，仍能保持价格公道。但Jambari先生做到了这一点。他的菜单受四个南亚王国影响：泰国、柬铺寨、老挝、越南（Jambari在这里开始学习厨艺）。

Our meal started off with an appetizer of tasty Vietnamese spring rolls and Thai fish cakes, served with a mound of lettuce and fresh, sweet basil. I have to say, I cannot remember a fish cake that has ever resonated with me. But Jambari’s fish cakes are chewy without being doughy,; and rely on the natural sweetness of fish meat enhanced (not overwhelmed) by a tropical chili-lime dipping sauce. Next was a large pomelo and prawn salad. What made this salad distinctive was its range of clean flavors. The pomelos were mellow and sweet, the prawns briny and fresh, and cherry tomatoes added a welcome, balancing tang. The ingredients were all infused with a subtle lemongrass and fish sauce dressing spiked with chilies, a gorgeous touch to an otherwise simple salad.

试餐始自开胃菜越南春卷和泰国鱼饼，搭配一大盘生菜和鲜甜的罗勒。我得说，我不记得我曾经产生过共鸣的鱼饼，但Jambari的鱼饼咬下去，里面没有面。完全是自然香甜的鱼肉本身的味道，上面淋了一些辣酸橙汁，更强调鱼之鲜味。下一道菜是柚子虾沙拉。这道沙拉与众不同的，是它清爽的口感。柚子香甜，虾肉咸鲜，樱桃西红柿增加了迷人而平衡的味道。所有原料都经柠檬香草浸泡，撒上红辣椒，使这道简单沙拉质感不同凡响。

The height of the meal came in the form of catfish, which was first steamed with lime juice in banana leaves. This process gets rid of the muddy flavor, for which catfish is notorious, and leaves behind firm and flavorful white flesh. The fish was then put in a clay pot and topped with the most beautifully complex coconut curry I have ever tasted. The curry sauce was chunky with pieces of ginger, lemongrass, and purple basil. But the best part was that it seemed to emanate a deeper, more secret ingredient that made me continue to taste and taste the sauce, until it was gone.

此餐的重点是放在巴蕉叶中的酸橙汁清蒸鲶鱼。这样做可以去除令人不快的土腥味，留下叶的清香。然后将鱼放在泥锅中，上面撒上美丽的椰子咖喱。咖喱汁溶合了生姜、柠檬香草、和紫罗勒的味道，最棒的似乎是它散发出的深深的、神秘的味道，我忍不住一尝再尝，一扫而光。

A Tale of 4 Cities is housed in a very chic renovated factory complex called Kesan (“Possibilities”), and it is a good place to nourish both your stomach and your inner artist. The spacious, spare restaurant acts as a community center of sorts for the surrounding art studios, and hosts monthly parties (geisha night was the most recent theme), wine pairings, tango lessons, art shows and performances. There is also a studio session offered every Sunday from 2-6pm. Aspiring foodies and artists alike pay 150 yuan at the door, and in return get full reign over a large canvas, paints, a glass of wine and finger food.

A Tale of 4 Cities 躲在一座叫Kesan（“可能性”）的翻新厂房内。这是一个可以同时滋养你的胃口与内在品味的地方。空旷的就餐环境成了附近艺术工作室的社交中心，每月举行各式聚会（最近的主题是艺妓之夜）、红酒配对、探戈课程、艺术展、以及各类演出。每周六下午2-6，这里举办画展。美食精英和艺术家们只需交付150元，就可得到一大块画布、颜料、一杯红酒、和充足的点心。

Do yourself (and your friends) a favor and drop by a Tale of 4 Cities for food lovingly prepared by Jambari, who generally mans the kitchen himself. The place is difficult to find, as it is located in a rather dark, unmarked complex. Walk into Kesan (on the left side of Kaixuan Lu when walking away from the Yan’an Xi Lu metro station), and building number 6 is all the way in back. The building looks unfinished. Don’t worry, you’re on the right path. Continue undaunted to the elevator (at the back of the building) up to the 3rd floor. Once inside, you will be welcomed into Jambari’s kitchen with open arms.

带着你的朋友来A Tale of 4 Cities体会这里的美食吧，Jambari 通常亲自操刀。这里不太好找，因为它在一座黑暗的、没有路标的单位中。走进Kesan （延安西路地铁口出来，凯旋路左侧），六号建筑即是。它看起来尚未建成，别担心，你走对了。勇敢地继续走向电梯（在建筑后面），上到三楼。一旦进入，Jambari 会张开双臂欢迎你。